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Negatron ii HT

This is my current setup in Mexico
Today, I decided to make some changes to the way my front speakers are setup. I went jnto the Xilica and rearrange all my outputs to make more sense (The originally made sense, but when I added the subs they no longer did). So I rearranged all the out puts and made one port for the subs, and used a y connector to run the mono outputs to the 2 subs. I left the subs crossed over @60hz, and this time I set it up to where each mid horn has its own tune capability.

So far they are sounding better with more bottom end, but I stil need to set the spl levels to match. Next weekend I hope to be able to dial in the 2 mids individually as right now they have the same tune. Once that is done and the subs are leveled properly I will add them to the tune list....listen for a week or more, and then retune the whole setup from top to bottom, and finish off the tune with magic beans software. Right now they are doing construction behind our house (building several hundred new townhouses and the noise is too much...except sometimes on weekends they do not work.

Eventually, after we move and I get the kit all setup again as a stereo 2.1, and a 7.1.4 with 1 sub only and then the front sub...it should sound nice. I plan on also moving back to projection again too...so the front channels can all be behind a acoustically transparent screen for movies. I have selected the surrounds I want to make, and they will get the emminence alphas, and the ev dh1a horns (1 per speaker...4 in total), they will be about the size of the klipsch heresy speakers, but with 15" woofers. I am also trying to get another k402 to make another meh, but this time only 2 woofers and in a cabinet. No need to go cabinetless for the center or surrounds imo.
 
It looks like I cannot find another k402 horns, unless I want to buy new from Klipsch $2800 plus shipping (for 1...used to be $1200 shipped). Then while I was thinking, I remembered back when I was bulding something out of fiberglass for electronics, and a sub in the hatch... I asked a friend at a car stereo shop who said to make a frame and then stretch a nylon stocking type material across the frame and then apply resin. When it hardens remove it from the frame and aff more layers with fiberglass. I guess I will try my luck on making a square horn using the short side of my horn...a 25" x25" MEH horn with 2 woofers in a cabinet with 2 woofers. If this works out I will make 5 of them ( I will just need 4 more woofers to complete all for 7 MEH channels! If I want a larger horn for the center.. I can make a MEH out by using the large side. I will start with the small side and if it works well, then look at the option for a larger center.
 
I wonder if you could find plans for making them with a 3-D printer? :dizzy::justdontknow::bigsmile:

I have a friend that has made an intake manifold for his 2nd gen Mazda RX7 on a 3-D printer... :cool:
 
I wonder if you could find plans for making them with a 3-D printer? :dizzy::justdontknow::bigsmile:

I have a friend that has made an intake manifold for his 2nd gen Mazda RX7 on a 3-D printer... :cool:
If I was able to find someone with a 3d scanner, I could then get a CAD drawing and I could get the pieces cut, but currently to have one scanned and rhen cnc'd from wood would most likely cost me more than buying one new.

I am currently checking to see if I can get a 3d scanner of my horn locally.

Now funny thing you mention about 3d pri ting one, as I just watched a YouTube channel today where a guy was 3d pri ting fenders for his 240z wide body, and I thought when will the price for 3d printing and 2d scanners come down to where I could make a horn side f r om 2 to 4 pieces economically. The guy in the video had a bunch of printers and it still took almost a day to print one fender. So it would still take a least a day to print a horn with multiple printers.

I am curious though...how expensive is it to 3d print? Do they use a lot of electricity to print for 24 hours? How expensive is the material to print one horn? If you already have the 3d printer would it cost for a 25" x 25" x18" horn?

It sure would be nice to be able to 3d print one with the woofer pads and ports completes, and just have to cleanup the strings, glue together, and then apply a finish to it.

I had a steel plate made that conforms to the angles of each side of the horn. A friend of mine said to just get some bendable plywood, make a jig, and make the mold from it. Then fiberglass or carbon fiber my horns.

I am also checking to see if I order some ABS horns if my bodyshop man can cut and weld the horns together...he has a plastic welder.

I will be happy if I can just get the sides made from my plates, ports drilled, mounting pads added, and t he flange mount made so i can just assemble and then have them painted
 
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I am sorry my friend, I have no answers to your above questions... It was just a crazy idea that came to mind... I know that there are folks in the automotive tuner world that make intake manifolds and fit some interesting combinations of carbs to some odd engines... Like my friend that somehow marries up 2 motorcycle carbs to a 2 rotor rotary engine... I think he is in the process of building a 3 rotor engine for his drag RX7...

Another line of thinking would be carbon fiber instead of fiberglass... And I know nothing about this subject either... :dizzy:
 
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I am sorry my friend, I have no answers to your above questions... It was just a crazy idea that came to mind... I know that there are folks in the automotive tuner world that make intake manifolds and fit some interesting combinations of carbs to some odd engines... Like my friend that somehow marries up 2 motorcycle carbs to a 2 rotor rotary engine... I think he is in the process of building a 3 rotor engine for his drag RX7...

Another line of thinking would be carbon fiber instead of fiberglass... And I know nothing about this subject either... :dizzy:
Thanks,
Today I ordered (2) 2' x 4' x 1/4" bendy mdf sheets (actually is kerfed mdf). That will be enough to at least make 1 horn layer. I figure once the horn flare is shaped, then I can have the woofer mounting pads made and attached to the horn side. Once that is donethe 4 sides can be installed, then attach a horn extension to the horn mouth which will be for the mouth flange. That piece can be from real wood, and be cut to where it makes the whole curved part 1/2"-3/4" thicker ( so the horn walls will be 3/4"- 1" total). Then the cabinet can be made for no void plywood, (possibly with a 1/4" Perota veneered plywood attached to the outer side of the cabinet, and a light reddish tint applied to match my cabinets), and the horn front flange can cover the cabinet front edge. Horn front and edges all painted to match the k402 MEHs, with the backside of the horn being any color that is not custom (due to the cost of the custom paint cost).
I am also looking at getting dsp plate amps for each channel to eliminate extra cables and amps.
 
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