Having an Issue with my SVS PC NSD12 Sub

[phillihp23]

SVS PC12-NSD
Not sure what is going on? Basically the sub is not powering on most of the time, and when it is it does not appear to be putting out bass.
At first I though maybe one of the outlets in the room was out, but I changed outlets and still issue. The green power light doesn't stay on.
What could the issue be? Amp blown, some sort of fuse blown?

 

[Tony V.]

Is the sub in auto? in auto it wont turn on unless it gets a loud enough signal.

 

[Todd Anderson]

Also, check to make sure the power cord is firmly inserted into the sub... make sure your connection to your AVR is solid, too!

Have you tried calling SVS tech support?

 

[Tonto]

Assuming you have checked the power cord, fuse & sub cable. The next thing to check is the AVR to make sure the LF's are still being sent to the sub. If that's not it, it's time to call customer support.

 

[phillihp23]

Is the sub in auto? in auto it wont turn on unless it gets a loud enough signal.

It is on auto. And Sub EQ was used to set it up. If the right sub is putting out sound then the left should also be, in the particular track I was listening too, and also because both are on the same AVR output.

 

[phillihp23]

Assuming you have checked the power cord, fuse & sub cable. The next thing to check is the AVR to make sure the LF's are still being sent to the sub. If that's not it, it's time to call customer support.

Would the power light come on if the Fuse was bad or blown? The power light comes on then just goes out shortly after. The two rear subs are on the same AVR output. SUB 1 --> Y connector --> two subs plugged in.

 

[Todd Anderson]

The power light going out probably indicates it's not receiving a signal.

Have you switched it out of auto mode to test?

 

[Tonto]

Try switching the cables.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

Yep... eliminate the cable being the issue by swapping them. If the same sub continues with the issue it could be a loose connection, so before assuming it's a bad amp, take the amp out and double check the connections. It is possible it could be loose. If all connections are tight, then it is likely a bad amp. If it's still under the 5 year warranty (realizing the NSD's are an older model), SVS will ship you a new one. If it's not, they will likely sell you one at a discounted price and you'll get a new 5 year warranty on the new amp.

 

[phillihp23]

So what I have discovered so far is that the rca input on the back of the sub is not working. I tried another rca input on the sub and it immediately worked. What does this mean? Is this effecting the range of base played? What would cause this?

 

[phillihp23]

The power light going out probably indicates it's not receiving a signal.

Have you switched it out of auto mode to test?

Switched it out of auto mode and stays lit but still no sound.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

It sounds like it's just a bad input, but they are summed, so you can use either one. If one is working, use it... you should be fine.

 

[phillihp23]

The first photo is how I have had it connected. Now none of the top three white inputs work. In order to get any sound I have to use the red LFE line in input, second photo.
Is this ok to do? I feel like the bass is too aggressive as compared to the other sub on the same line when I just tried this...don't want to damage the woofer. My bass test is scene 33 of Brave, the bear fight.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

The second one, how you have it connected now, is how you should have both connected. LFE is the correct input. Plug both into the LFE inputs and then rerun Audyssey.

 

[Sonnie Parker]

FYI... the top three white connections are NOT all inputs. ONLY the far left. Read the labeling. The white is LEFT and the red is RIGHT. The first set of red and white vertical RCA's are the inputs. The second set (middle) red and white RCA connections are for full range outputs to another sub or another amp if you were using a different type of setup. The third set (far right) red and white RCA connections will only OUTPUT a high pass signal if you were using the built-in crossover on the amp, which you are not using... you are using the crossover in your Denon. So the second and third column are OUTPUTS ... NOT inputs... you won't ever get your sub to work plugging into to those from your Denon.

 

[phillihp23]

It makes sense thinking about it. Swore I followed the instruction manual setting them up.

 

[phillihp23]

FYI... the top three white connections are NOT all inputs. ONLY the far left. Read the labeling. The white is LEFT and the red is RIGHT. The first set of red and white vertical RCA's are the inputs. The second set (middle) red and white RCA connections are for full range outputs to another sub or another amp if you were using a different type of setup. The third set (far right) red and white RCA connections will only OUTPUT a high pass signal if you were using the built-in crossover on the amp, which you are not using... you are using the crossover in your Denon. So the second and third column are OUTPUTS ... NOT inputs... you won't ever get your sub to work plugging into to those from your Denon.

FYI... the top three white connections are NOT all inputs. ONLY the far left. Read the labeling. The white is LEFT and the red is RIGHT. The first set of red and white vertical RCA's are the inputs. The second set (middle) red and white RCA connections are for full range outputs to another sub or another amp if you were using a different type of setup. The third set (far right) red and white RCA connections will only OUTPUT a high pass signal if you were using the built-in crossover on the amp, which you are not using... you are using the crossover in your Denon. So the second and third column are OUTPUTS ... NOT inputs... you won't ever get your sub to work plugging into to those from your Denon.

I have this image of you towering over me stating the above and scowling..

 

[phillihp23]

It sounds like it's just a bad input, but they are summed, so you can use either one. If one is working, use it... you should be fine.

Is it a complicated fix to repair the inputs that stopped working? Is there any concern that other issues are likely to arise due to a larger issue that may have caused the input to fail?

 

[Todd Anderson]

It's probably a loose connection on the inside of the sub. If one is working, I wouldn't sweat it...

 

[Sonnie Parker]

I have this image of you towering over me stating the above and scowling..

lol... no "scowling" ... just making sure I was very clear in my wording so as not to get confusing.

As Todd stated, I wouldn't sweat it... you are now using the correct inputs and all is good.

 

[tesseract]

Did you get it going, phillihp23?

 

[phillihp23]

Did you get it going, phillihp23?

Yes, just need to run sub eq to get things properly adjusted again.

 

[phillihp23]

Things still seem to be out of wack.
First photo is svs install instructions which is how everything was set up and working until recent.
Second photo is svs photo of back of sub.
After EQ this is the levels things are set at...photo 3 & 4. Things dont look right for the subs. Sub 1 is front subs, Sub 2 is back subs.

 

[Todd Anderson]

Do you have an spl meter?

Perhaps you accidentally bumped the gain up on one of the rear subs and the AVR is just compensating for it?

 

[phillihp23]

Do you have an spl meter?

Perhaps you accidentally bumped the gain up on one of the rear subs and the AVR is just compensating for it?

what's the range I should be getting on the meter, I don't recall? Also should I be using the white noise function to measure? And is that a function on the avr or on a setup disc? I forget. Dont do this a lot, last time was like 4 yrs ago. I mean when you get it right no reason to mess with it, ehh