Who can i send my files to so to get the best support

Josias 8 MP

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Hi, I have a few saved measurements and documentation and what to see if I can talk with someone about how to interpret the graph and info in seeing. I have watched many Nirvana tutorials and been reading about if acoustic room modes, treatment ect... but still have a couple of questions. Is there a way to talk with a tech?
 

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Post your questions here. Us amateurs will attempt to help.

But be aware that you will need to read the help files, and search the web, too.

There ain't no one paid to do what you want.
 

Josias 8 MP

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Thanks Wayne!
Well ok here goes. After all my measurements I can affirm that my small room is causing between 50Hz to 122Hz drop out by -10db and no amount of absorption is working to correct it. I don't have the luxury to get a bigger place and I need to find what others do in my situation. I'm an aspiring audio engineer and realize that I need the best listening position I can get. Any suggestions?
 

trobbins

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Bass end room modes are related to driver location and number - have you tried a few driver locations? Have you tried 1 or 2 subwoofers (and their locations) with variable peak/max frequency corner to see if they can fill/flatten out the bass end?
 

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@Josias 8 MP, Please provide more information about your room dimensions, sketches or photos, any room treatments you have, and maybe post some .mdat files from REW for us to review... We, the folks here at AV NIRVANA, will give you lots of suggestion once we know more about what you have and what your trying to do...
 

Josias 8 MP

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My room is 10.6 ft front wall to back wall, 10.7ft side walls and 8.2ft ceiling. My 8in Kali LP-8 are trimmed with LF -2db and HF -2db. My frequency response with several measurements is a hugh lull between 50Hz to 120Hz which my room sim shows accurately. I noticed in the sim that if I have .7in absorbers I can flatten the response better, but I just don't even know where to start with that. Should I put up a hugh comforter over the whole back wall? I realize my issue is the room mode. The speakers are on stands that are mounted onto my table which is glass & each speaker sit 1in away from front wall. I'm thinking my only option is EQ of that lull. I have placed my 1st reflections spots with absorbers and diffusers and no change in response. I have 7 diffusers rights behind me and nothing helps the low end at all. I'm pretty exhausted trying to fix this issue. At a target of 70db comfortable listening range for me this is what I'm getting
48924
 

Josias 8 MP

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Josias 8 MP

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I was looking to install ABO configuration editor to my Mac Pro, 2020 4 T but having issues locating proper download
 

Josias 8 MP

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Also found .5in BXI black thickened sound absorbers on Amazon. Would I cover the entire back wall with these? If I was to try a cost effective way of putting up absorbers on the back wall.
 

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Ok, so those are not .mdat file(s)... Those are screen shots... Please send the REW .mdat file(s)... Next up is for you to learn about base traps (absorbers)... They need to be thick, as in _many_ inches thick, and placed where long waves build up... The corners... Where three things (walls and floor & walls and ceiling) come together to make corners are good and where two things come together are almost as good... You can even build them yourself... You will want these traps in the front and back, although in your space, being a square, you just want them in every corner... Oh, did I suggest every corner... As for wide band diffusion, I would look at the center front wall and the first reflection points to the left and right walls... A glass table top is not so swift... Maybe there is something you can do about that... Lets see where we go from here... Ask questions and learn a lot... And remember Google is your frenemy...
 

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The room dimensions are pretty much the worst case, as transverse and longitudinal modes are the same frequency, and therefore pretty strong. Absorbers will not change situation unless they are like 0.5 m thick, and at least on two walls. Corner traps may slightly help, if they are large enough like 1×1 m. And the room is too small to place the speakers more in the middle. I agree with @trobbins: increasing the number of speakers (subs) and variation of their location is a chance.
 

Josias 8 MP

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Oh, sorry about the pic, I'll get you the mdat files. I picked up a warehouse job so this weekend I'm gunna be able to send the mdat. files. I really appreciate the info! I put up some foam bass traps from Amazon, there abut 5in thick at center but I only have like 8. I'd be a few more to fill all the corners of the room but I'm willing to do it if the foam ones are sufficient. I put two moving blankets on the back wall which make almost a full inch wool lined from wall. I'm thinking I want to get 4ft x 2ft by 2ft think rockwool panels and put two of them on the back wall as well. That plus the bass traps( decent ones) and then test it again.
 

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So, foam absorbers are not so swift... You might take a look at GIK Acoustics Soffit Bass traps or others to get a feel about what is really needed... Fiberglass or Rock Wool several inches thick... You can DIY, buy kits or finished products... It really helps to treat the room first and then EQ as needed...
 

Josias 8 MP

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So I have a question about my room set up. The image is a crude drawing but if you were to have to work with a 10.6ft by 10.7ft space that was laid out like this. Where would you want your speakers to point to? Currently i am facing the wall with the window and the door to the room is behind me. I have the window filled with insulation, Pink foam and wool in order to diminish outside noise. It doesn't work that well but I can always revist making it better. I just wonder if I should set up my speakers differently. I couldn't have the speakers facing the window with the door to the room being my front wall, because the symmetry of speakers to wall would be interrupted due to the main door into the room. So that leaves me the options to face the side walls (currently) and have the window on the right side or left side of my listening position. But honestly I don't think it's going to master, but that's why I'm looking for any advice you may have on this matter.
49076
 

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I would probably place my speakers along the bare wall, to the left side of your sketch, which appears to have no doors, windows or closets... If that is a wall... Having the window to the right, the door to the left and the closet to the rear and the bare wall to the front... Seems more symmetric to me... You might search the web for "Cardas Audio" and his room setup page 6...
 
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Josias 8 MP

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Cool. I'm gunna lol that up.
 

Josias 8 MP

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Thank you everyone for helping. It's been a while and now I've built my own bass traps and first reflection panels. I have also devised a curved panel on my back wall right behind me. I am getting a much better response however now I have a peak that is at about 140Hz and I am trying to figure out how to correct it. Essentially what I started out doing today on Day 2 was test the position of my mic. I started out being 4ft from my front wall, I am in the middle of the room so 5ft. 2in from the side walls. I have my mic positioned at the height of 4ft which is were I would typically be. I found out that moving the mic at 33in gave me the desired SPL level of 75 that I was looking for. So my big bass issues are pretty much resolved, I think its the best I'm gunna get, but I really would like to fit the peak at 140Hz. Any suggestions?
 

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Josias 8 MP

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This is after several measurements of the same 33in position. It seems the standing wave at 140Hz is caused by a sub bass freq that I haven't even touched. I am not entirely sure what to do. It appears to be an axial mode and the room calculator says at 6ftx5ftx8ft is where this wave is the most obvious, I just don't know how to tame it,.
 

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trobbins

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How much variation in 140Hz SPL do you get when moving the mic location (eg. a matrix of x,y,z coordinates from your existing origin) ?
 

Josias 8 MP

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Actually moving the mix 4 inches on a circular field gives the same results. It's like a 1 foot circle in my listening position which yield the same results
 

Josias 8 MP

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Of course I keep the height at 4ft. Because realistically I'm not seated below or really above that due to my ergonomic chair.
 

Josias 8 MP

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I'm thinking since it's so consistent. Maybe I should use the EQ software to bring down that peak. I can even set up a basic PEQ on my master bus and just make sure it's Q and freq are inverse of my biggest peaks. I don't want to EQ everything, just the major problems. But I'm also still learning any the Rt60 and waterfall graph to determine where the problems are in association with FR
 

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Let me just start by saying good job with your room treatments @Josias 8 MP... You might try moving the Yamahas forward or back a few inches to see how that peek reacts... Also try corking that rear port with a wad of fiberglass stuffed into a sock or something... Your Kalis have some jumper switches to set for on your desk and also LF and HF Trim... Have you tried using the LF jumper to cut LF? And of course, you can always cut that peak with some EQ... Just don't over do it...
 

Josias 8 MP

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Thank you! I've put many hours and weekends into learning and doing what I can possibly do in this tiny space. I am still not 100% on how to determine where to put the panels in reference to what my room calculator says, but the bob gold calculator is right on when it determines my peaks and at what freq those peaks occur. I have a 45inx45inx3in panel above my listening position that is suspended on the ceiling 3in from the ceiling. And I'm wondering if I really need it? After doing more tests I've decided to make a panel 6ft x 4ft on the front wall at my listening position. But I'm still figuring how thick I need it to be.
 

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@Josias 8 MP One of my favorite book on this subject is Master Handbook of Acoustics by F. Alton Everest & Ken C. Pohlmann... You seem pretty resourceful, you may find several editions, some of which may be freely downloadable, in pdf format... Edition 4 or 5 may be freely downloadable by now... This Master Handbook contains several chapters related to LF issues and the various ways to deal with them...

Forward to your question about do you need the ceiling panel... Remove it and see what happens with your REW sweeps... Pretty easy to compare with and without... As to your front wall, 4 inches thick at a minimum and think about some kind of strike plate which will reflect HF and allow LF to pass into the absorber... Also think about some stand off space behind the absorber... That reminds me, have you tried pulling your corner absorbers out from the corner a bit? It seems you have all the tools you need for a little try it and see...
 
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