2020 RAM Laramie 4WD Audio System Build w/ 12" Display and JL Audio Stealthbox

[Sonnie]

I keep saying that one day I am going to grow out of my car audio hobby obsession. Perhaps that will be the day you guys will be talking about me in the past tense, as I just can't shake it.

With my previous 2019 RAM Laramie 2WD there were a couple of instances where I really needed a 4WD, and the fact I kept having buyer's remorse for not getting one when I got the 2019, I finally broke down and traded in the 2019 for a 2020. I shopped around as I normally do, and the only dealer that would really step up to help me out was about 5-6 hours away, and the unit they had in stock has the new 12" display that RAM came out with in 2019. This one also happens to have the Harman Kardon system vs the Alpine system. But since I was not going to be doing anything with the factory system in the 2020... ... I figured the HK system with the larger display might be okay.

I had went all out in the 2019, although I thought the Alpine system was reasonably good for a factory system. I ended up with a really nice Hybrid Audio Technologies system with a custom built MTI Acoustics sub box, and used the miniDSP to tune the system. It turned out extremely nice... 2019 RAM 1500 Laramie Crew Cab System Build Project

So I met the dealer delivery guy about half way from my home and the dealership to swap trucks and sign the paperwork. Jumped in the new 2020 and immediately started fiddling with all the various settings while sitting in the Walmart parking lot, looking upon a massively huge black cloud headed my way. After getting everything setup, I proceeded on home. As I got going, I started messing with the audio controls to try to get it sounding somewhat listenable, but no matter what I did, the SiriusXM sounded horrible. I thought surely this system can't be that bad. The bass was extremely boomy... unbearably so... to the point of having to turn the bass down to -9... the lowest setting.

After getting home, I decided to grab my USB drive and give it a try... okay... much better than SiriusXM, but still boomy bass. After investigating in the RAM forums, I learned that the boomy bass was an issue. I also read about a lot of unhappy owners with the HK system. However, there were a few that really liked the system... a mixed bag of likes/dislikes. I kept reading and investigating, spoke with RAMCare, and while some were able to get their boominess fixed, I am on the latest software update and nothing else can be done for my system, as odd as that may be.

This got me thinking about maybe just putting the MTI box in the truck, swapping out the 5-channel amp for a single channel sub amp, but I didn't want to have to run the PAC and setup the miniDSP again, and I didn't want to sacrifice the use of my rear floor storage bins, and the new rubber mats I got for the rear, as the MTI box would not fit like I wanted it to. So I started looking around and found out JL Audio makes a Stealhbox for the truck that fits very nicely and does not interfere with the storage nor the mats... perfect fit. And they have an amp that has a built-in DSP using their TuN software. I also learned that my truck has the single voice coil sub that is NOT used in the ANC, unlike my triple voice coil sub in the 2019. So this makes it very easy to feed the JL Audio LoC-22 with the factor sub speaker leads. Problem solved for the subwoofer issue.

The question now would be how good is the rest of the Harman Kardon system. I began my normal procedure of dampening the outer door skin, the rear of the truck, quieting down as much of the noise as I could, not that the RAM trucks are not already one of the quietest rides on the market, if not the quietest. I even stuffed the sub with polyfil and dampened the enclosure. After doing all this... wow... what a completely different sounding system. I was able to turn the bass from -9 to +7 and really crank up the volume with the USB music. The mid-bass is astoundingly good. I don't want to confuse anyone... it is not as good as the HAT system with the minDSP, but it's good enough I can live with it and not have to go thru the a full overhaul (remember this statement for later). After removing the factory subwoofer, I learned that it really wasn't helping much on the bass end of things. The system sounds about as good with or without it... and it's still a tad on the boomy side, although not nearly as bad as it was. I've actually been really enjoying listening to the system without the factory sub, and continue to be amazed at just how good the HK system sounds. Hopefully the Stealthbox will give it that extra punch in the lowest octaves once I get it installed.

New additions will be as follows...

JL Audio Stealthbox

JL Audio VX1000/1i Amp

JL Audio LoC-22 Integration Mudule

JL Audio DRC-205 Control Knob

Here's what I've done thus far...

I did not take pics of the doors... it looks pretty much the same as what I did in my previous install. I did go a step farther and remove the inner door panel so that I could get more dampening on the outer skin. I also used a thicker foam between the door panel and door. In the back, I build a box to go over the vents and used open cell foam for filtering the dust that seems to creep in so easily thru those vents, and the open cell is in front of closed cell to help trap some of the air noise.

Here you can see the rear vent boxes I fabricated, and some of the dampening material... and the 1/2" thick closed cell foam that I lined the back wall and the back of the rear wall panel with...

I covered the opening where the factory subwoofer was located... added extra closed cell foam in that area behind the panel as well.

I have already installed the DRC-205 control knob...

At this point, I am now waiting on the Stealthbox, VXi amp and LoC-22.


UPDATE: 7/15/2020

So remember that statement I made early on, "but it's good enough I can live with it and not have to go thru the a full overhaul". This is something you should NEVER say! If it were TRUE, I would not have ordered another JL amp (6-channel) and another miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL (after selling the other one I had just a week or so ago). The problem (other than I just can't shake the bug) is the front stage. I can't get it up high enough with the door speakers playing frequencies that are pulling it down, and the imaging is just not sufficient with the center speaker being used. It's moving around on me too much. It's really difficult to have a JBL MS-8 processor for several years (I think I still have two of them in my shop) ... then a miniDSP, which is even better than the MS-8, and try to be satisfied with less. I'm already half way there with the Stealthbox installed, so why not take the next step and go all the way with it.

 

[Sonnie]

After spending some time with the HK system (still no JL Stealthbox yet)... I absolutely LOVE the mid-bass in this truck. I have completely removed the factory sub and I almost could live without a sub, but of course there is no way that's gonna happen (Lord willing). However, the highs, and dash speakers have experienced some harsh edge and distortion, so I looked around the RAM forums for what others were trying and found the Infinity Reference 3021 3.5" dash speakers are what seem to be the most popular. I grabbed up a couple of pair (need 3 to go across the front) and gave them a try. They did not work out... I lost all my highs... sounded muffled. I don't really get it, as the factory speakers measured 4.1 ohms and the Infinity speakers 2.6 ohm and are 91dB sensitivity. But it was clearly noticeable. I connected one of them in the left front dash, and left the factory in the right front dash, and I would quickly drag the balance from left to right and back... using the same song and comparing the two. The sound was significantly different. I went ahead and installed all three Infinity speakers across the dash, but I never could get it to sound right. They were much cleaner, but it was almost if the tweeter had been disconnected and only the midrange was playing and couldn't get the highs out.

So... I ordered up some FaitalPRO 3" speakers from Parts Express, as I had heard good things about those as well, although not as many RAM owners using them as they are the Infinity speakers. I get those in and start testing those. They measured 3.9 ohms and are rated at 91dB as well. Pop one in the left side and start moving the balance back and forth from the Infinity in the right dash location... and the highs came back. I also compared the FaitalPRO's to the factory and I could tell they were about the same. So I went one step farther and decided to measure the dB level of each speaker. Playing a 1kHz tone that I recorded from REW, measuring at 1" above the speaker with my SPL meter, the factory speaker measured 85dB, the Infinity speaker 81dB and the FaitalPRO was at 85dB. Then I measured using Pink Periodic Noise full range and got 84, 81, 84. So the Infinity was down 3-4 dB. And if I had took the time to break out my laptop and REW, I suspect I would have seen a significant roll off in the off axis response of the Infinity speakers. The FaitalPRO's are known for their wideband off axis response and have a response graph showing up on Parts Express that verify it.

Factory Speaker
4.1 ohm
1kHz = 85dB
FR = 84dB

Infinity Reference 3032
2.6 ohm
1kHz = 81dB
FR = 81dB

FaitalPRO 3FE22
3.9 ohm
1kHz = 85dB
FR = 84dB


Hooked up all three FaitalPRO's and now we are getting somewhere. Much cleaner at higher volumes than the factory speakers, and I compared this as well when I had both connected. The factory speakers got really nasty distorted at a volume level of 30 on certain songs, while the FaitalPRO's were clean. I am amazed at how this speaker outperforms the Infinity speaker... in my partially subjective opinion of course.

 

[Sonnie]

I decided to do a little bit of measuring this morning to see what the response looks like in the 2020 with the factory speakers (less the factory sub) and the FaitalPRO's installed in the dash. I used Pink Periodic Noise recorded from 20Hz to 20kHz in REW.

This first measurement is with all EQ bands set to 0 (flat) at the driver's head area... and a nearfield measurement of the FaitalPRO. The bass is this truck without a sub is really good, and now I can see why. The response is remarkably good for a factory system. Typically it is preferred to have the curve resemble what you see, with the bass being heavy and dropping off gradually all the way out to 20kHz. Obviously it would be nice to fix a few areas, but for a factory response, this is very acceptable. The dash speakers appear to be crossed over at 300Hz, which is perfect. What we see in the lower bass region is from the door speakers, since I am not able to turn those off.

Then I wanted to see what was happening with the EQ band adjustments... so I measured each band at +7 to see the frequency range affected. It appears they are using a fairly wide bandwidth (low Q factor) centered around 60Hz, 1kHz and 10kHz.

If I have time, and don't sell the Infinity dash speakers, I may hook one of those back up and measure it to compare the response to the FaitalPRO and then I can see the difference I was hearing.

 

[Sonnie]

Installed the rear headliner FaitalPRO speakers today, while waiting on my windshield to cool to treat it with Optimum Opti-Glass Coating.

I really would like to wire them for rear fill, but I'm afraid I might damage the amp since I would be attempting to bridge those amp channels...

Amp Left+ to Speaker Left+
Speaker Left - to Speaker Right-
Speaker Right+ to Amp Right-

However, no way to add the delay.

At this point, I have wired them out of phase to see if that will help any... probably won't.

 

[Sonnie]

Decided to compare the difference between the factory, Infinity and FaitalPRO speakers.

In the factory headunit I set the Bass EQ band set at -9... as we have already determined it does not effect the dash speaker since it is high-passed at 300Hz.

The first graph shows response measured at the speaker mounted in the dash. The factory speakers is surprisingly very flat, although at the speaker is not where it matters most.

The second graph shows the response with the mic at the head area of the driver's seat... center of where my head would me. This will vary somewhat based on how your seat is adjusted and where your head is located, so this is not the end all of the response you will hear, but it will give you a fairly good idea of the comparison of the speakers.

There is approximately 12dB difference between the factory speaker and the Infinity at 2kHz... and a fairly nice trough between 600-2kHz, which is why some of us are noticing such a drastic difference. Again, the factory speaker is the smoothest among the three. I suspect it was designed this way and/or there is EQ applied in the DSP portion of the amp. I suspect the harshness of the factory speaker comes from the bump at 2.7kHz. That area right around 2.5kHz can be shrill, while 4kHz is not near as bad (at least not to me). I did not test it, but if you have the Infinity, you could bump your mid EQ band up to +7 to +9 and get several dB closer to factory, as you'll get about a 3-6dB boost from 400Hz - 3kHz... which is the area most affected above. And you could bump your high EQ band up to +4 to +6 and it would be all that terribly far off altogether.

The area above 13kHz matters not to me, as I have already proven in testing that I can't hear the first thing above 12kHz, and I have to have my ear right up near the speaker to hear 12kHz. Several of us guys tested our hearing (unofficially) during one of our speaker evaluations and none of us could hear much of anything above 11-12kHz at any respectable level.

 

[Sonnie]

Got the CDT speakers in. Installed them in the front. Really not any difference to note in the response or volume level at the same volume setting on the headunit, but they will no doubt handle louder volumes with less distortion. Worth it if you crank it up a good bit, which I do. They are much beefier speakers and don't require a lot of power to drive them, as evidenced by the same SPL at the same volume setting.

Also installed the FaitalPRO's in the upper door, which made a little difference in the top end.

Here are some comparison pics and graphs.

FaitalPRO installed in top of door.

 

[Sonnie]

I believe it is worth noting that during my 25 minute drive to the shop this morning, I was playing some of my favorite Yello tracks, which have some interesting bass good for testing a car system. I am fairly certain I notice the CDT exhibit no stress at louder volumes, whereas the factory speakers did have a limit where I noticed they were beginning to stress and I'd have to back off the volume. No backing off with the CDT, they seemed to play much more effortlessly, which they should, being a better built speaker with considerably more xmax.

I currently have all EQ bands set to flat, fading about 3 notches to the front (so the back door speakers are not producing as much) and the surround turned on, which seems to bring the stage to the front better, without any other adverse effects that I can notice. I am very pleased with the sound, but still missing that lowest 1/2 octave on some songs, which the JL Audio Stealthbox should take care of. Lord willing... I'll be picking it up today. Even though I like to fade to front to get a better front sound stage, I will go ahead and replace the rear door speakers with the CDT's to hopefully eliminate any potential distortion from the rear speakers.

 

[Todd Anderson]

Looks like you're getting some good extension, Sonnie. I have to admit, I know next to nothing about car audio. That's an entirely different animal. Looks fun, tho!

 

[Sonnie]

It's very similar to home audio, once you get that good sound in a vehicle, it's hard to let it go. It's never as good as home, but it can be pretty good still. And I commute 50 miles round trip 4-5 days weekly, so I get a good dose of the sound.

 

[Todd Anderson]

For a 50 min drive... well, yeah, I can totally see what you might want to upgrade.

 

[Sonnie]

I will listen to sports talk radio during college football season, but all they are talking about right now is the virus and if we'll have a season or not. Very boring. Rest of the year I pretty much listen to my USB thumb drive with my favorites.

I had to do about a two hour trip today and I was jammin out for sure.

 

[Sonnie]

I STAND CORRECTED!!! At least I think I do. I stated that I did not think the subwoofer in the HK system with e-Torque is used for ANC due to what others had said in the RAM discussion forums about not having any issues tapping into the subwoofer speaker leads to feed their aftermarket sub amp. I now believe it may be used.

I finished up the Stealthbox install and my wife and I drove about an hour to do some shopping and take care of a few errands over the weekend. I started noticing the old dreaded drone noise that some others had mentioned having with the door speakers when they did not wire it in reverse polarity like the factory had them wired. The entire time I was thinking, why am I just now noticing that I may not have connected the door speakers correctly. Then I got to thinking... is what I am hearing from the sub. So I turn the headunit volume down, turn the sub control up... sure enough, it's from the sub. When I am driving 55 and let off the gas to coast, hear it comes, very pronounced. I can turn the sub off, no noise... turn it back on, it's there. If I press the gas pedal again, it goes away. It pretty much has to be the ANC kicking in, but for the life of me, I can't figure out what noise it is trying to combat, because when I have the sub turned off and let off the gas to coast, I don't hear a thing. Of course I am FAR from knowledgeable about how the ANC works, and it may not be this, but it makes sense that it is. The JL amp is amplifying the ANC signal to the sub when the sub is turned up, and it gets louder as the sub level increases.

THEREFORE... at this point, I cannot recommend using the subwoofer speaker leads to feed into a JL Audio LoC-22. I can't speak for feeding into high-level inputs on an amp (my amp does not have high-level inputs). I have ordered a PAC AmpPRO and will use it instead of the LoC-22 and that should work, as it worked for me in my 2019 without having to disable the ANC. The PAC bypasses the ANC/factory amp... whereas the sub leads do not, so it makes sense the sub is being used for ANC, although I suppose it could be something else, but I'm doubting it and believe it is indeed the ANC. I'm going with that until and if I can prove otherwise.

Oh... and here are the pics of the Steatlhbox and amp install...

 

[Sonnie]

So remember that statement I made in my first post, "it's good enough I can live with it and not have to go thru the a full overhaul". This is something you should NEVER say! If it were TRUE, I would not have ordered another JL amp (6-channel) and another miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL (after selling the other one I had just a week or so ago). The problem (other than I just can't shake the bug) is the front stage. I can't get it up high enough with the door speakers playing frequencies that are pulling it down, and the imaging is just not sufficient with the center speaker being used. It's moving around on me too much. Disconnecting the upper door speakers helped, but the factory system has the doors high-passed too high to keep the stage from wondering off the dash and too much to the sides. I could probably cap the door speakers, but what fun would that me, and it doesn't solve my center imaging issue either.

It's really difficult to have a JBL MS-8 processor for several years (I think I still have two of them in my shop) ... then a miniDSP, which is even better than the MS-8, and try to be satisfied with less. The processors will spoil you. I'm already half way there with the Stealthbox installed, so why not take the next step and go all the way with it.

This also opens up the possibilities of other dash speakers that do not have to be as high sensitivity to work with the factory amp, since the factory amp will only be used on the rear door speakers to keep the ANC active. I'd love to keep the doors nipped at about 250Hz and have the dash speakers take over there, so having something that can do that job will be a requirement.

 

[Sonnie]

These are what I installed today in the dash. I made mounting plates for them so that I could completely seal them off from underneath.

Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia X3-P

So... now I have 3 FaitalPRO speakers for sale for someone to use in their dash (best replacement speakers available for the factory amp)... with the tab already removed on the side that goes to the window for the left and right corners. $85 shipped for all three.

I also have a pair of CDT 6x9 speakers to sale.. no pic right now, but the look brand new... $85 shipped.

I also installed these Unity 6x9's in the front doors today. Had to cut out about 1/8" all the way around... same as in my previous RAM. Easily done with a small drum sander in a Dremel.

Then I added a bead of raw butyl rubber to seal it good...

Then I dampened the enclosure to give it some more rigidity and prevent the plastic housing from vibrating as much as possible.

Still waiting on the miniDSP. Apparently there is more to go thru than previously, as I had to provide all kinds of info as the importer, which I've never had to do before, and I've had probably 5-6 orders with miniDSP with the latest being less than a year ago.

Got all the speaker wires connected and run to the back, along with breakers and fuses changed out/added, etc.

Hoping to get the amp installed tomorrow, and everything hooked up, with the exception of the miniDSP, as it may be a couple more days before I see it.

Someone asked... why 6x9's in the door... why not use 6.5" speakers? Here's why... in my opinion these doors are designed better for 6x9 speakers, and a 6x9 oval speaker is equivalent to an 8" round speaker. The 6x9 will produce more bass than a 6.5". Yes, I'm using a subwoofer, however, I want as much bass up front as possible, and I'd like to crossover my door speakers at 60Hz, not the traditional 80Hz, and it would be difficult to find a shallow mount 6.5" with the Fs parameter that the 6x9 has, which will enable a cleaner response down to 60Hz. The subwoofer is only going to handle up to 45Hz, although with the boost in SPL on the sub, it will be more like 60Hz. Bottomline... in my opinion and in my experience, a 6.5" speaker isn't going to sound as good as a 6x9. The 6x9 is going to be superior in many ways, most importantly to assist in getting the bass more up front where it should be. Yep... there are those who will say you'll get less distortion from round speakers than you will oval speakers. Hmmm... tell that to Sandy Gross at Golden Ear who uses 7x10 and 5x9 speakers in his award winning speakers. Hybrid Audio, who has won several SQ events with their shallow mount 6x9 Unity speakers, and several other companies out there, make some of the best sounding 6x9 speakers on the market, and they will flat out make most 6.5" speakers wish they sounded as good. At any rate... I have no issues whatsoever with 6x9 speakers, but everyone can make their own choices when shopping.

 

[Sonnie]

Finally got a pic of the 6-channel amp and miniDSP install, seats now back in and all is running smooth. It sound phenomenal... the JL amp is super clean.

Very tight area to work with, but I managed it. This is where the factory subwoofer was located... all covered up by the rear panel, hence no reason to make it look like a fashion show.

 

[Sonnie]

Ordered up a higher capacity battery as an added precaution, and to help with the parking mode on the dash cam that I ordered as well (it will give it more recording time). I've had several of these type batteries over the years, Kinetic (who only make caps now), XS Power and Optima. This time I went with Northstar, as it seems to be the biggest bang for the buck and the best warranty at 4 years.

• Pure lead AGM technology delivers exceptional CCA ratings and reserve capacity cycling ability
• Quick starting every time
• Cycles over 900 times at 50% depth of discharge
• Faster recharge than conventional batteries
• Proudly made in the USA at our state-of-the-art battery plant
• OEM fit is ensured - built to exact BCI standards
• Housed in advanced plastics for durability performance and heat resistance
• Advanced AGM construction means no water levels to check or terminals to clean

 

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

Hey Sonnie,

Just curious - when you use the stock head unit, what to you use as the 12v trigger to turn on the amplifiers?

Regards,
Wayne

 

[Sonnie]

In my vehicles I always use a PAC AmpPRO module specific to my vehicle, which sends a clean signal to the amp, and includes the remote turn-on wire. Otherwise you have to find a 12 volt accessory source to tap into.

 

[power4people]

Hi Sonnie,
Any updates on the new system? I have a 20 Ram 1500 with the Alpine and I am currently planning my audio upgrades for early next year. Like you I initially thought I could live with the system but over the course of just a few days I realized how limited the system would be in the long run. So I dive back in to another upgrade. Like you I thought I would outgrow this hobby but...

In my previous truck I used the HAT Legatia L3SE with L6SE in doors and an AudioMobile 10" sub powered by Zapco ZX 150.6 and Zapco DSP III. I really liked the full range L3 up front and I want to go in that direction again.

Since you have had both can you call out the differences between the L3SE and the L3X? Is it worth the cost delta?

Also, can you comment on the differences between the MTI box with the Clarus Subs vs the JL Audio Stealthbox. You mentioned Yello previously. Can the thin profile JL subs keep up?

 

[Sonnie]

Hi Sonnie,
Any updates on the new system? I have a 20 Ram 1500 with the Alpine and I am currently planning my audio upgrades for early next year. Like you I initially thought I could live with the system but over the course of just a few days I realized how limited the system would be in the long run. So I dive back in to another upgrade. Like you I thought I would outgrow this hobby but...

In my previous truck I used the HAT Legatia L3SE with L6SE in doors and an AudioMobile 10" sub powered by Zapco ZX 150.6 and Zapco DSP III. I really liked the full range L3 up front and I want to go in that direction again.

Since you have had both can you call out the differences between the L3SE and the L3X? Is it worth the cost delta?

Also, can you comment on the differences between the MTI box with the Clarus Subs vs the JL Audio Stealthbox. You mentioned Yello previously. Can the thin profile JL subs keep up?

Welcome to AV NIRVANA

Besides my wife stealing all of my good stuff and making me install it in her car, I have not updated my truck again. I plan to... have another miniDSP in waiting, but have not purchased any new speakers yet. I have the 4" FaitalPRO units in the dash right now running off the factory amp, with the Stealthbox.

I do believe the X is a step above the SE... but not sure if the price is justified. They do sound phenomenal for a vehicle, no doubt. When it comes down to buying speakers again, it may be a difficult decision for me to pass on the X. I believe I will prefer the Legatia 6 over the Unity 6x9 next time around, as their Fs is slightly lower IIRC.

The Clarus subs are very good, but I believe the Stealthbox is better. It absolutely slams hard with the VXi amp... and I have yet been able to bottom them out. They reach way down there, and a lot of the Yello music has bass in the teens. I've not experienced this kind of bass in a vehicle that I can ever remember. JL apparently figured out the perfect design for this truck and when you smooth out the frequency anomalies in the lower end, it sounds incredible to say the very least. It's obviously not going to be like having dual 18's in the vehicle, but they are solid and clean, and hit very hard. I was totally surprised at how good they are.

 

[power4people]

Thanks for the welcome.
Wives have a tendency to do that sort of thing Mine has a BMW 440ix and I am surprised she has not asked for a new sub yet. I have a PHD 12.1 just for that purpose.

Great feedback on the JL. I am 100% going to order that same combo of Stealth Box and Amp for the low end. For the front sound stage I really love the HAT L3. Fits in the factory location and sound fantastic. But I am with you. I am wondering if I just bite the bullet and get the X.

Thanks for posting all the miniDSP and PAC info. Very helpful and I am looking forward to using your knowledge to help me tune my truck. I appreciate it.

 

[Sonnie]

Glad to help... and be sure to share pics and info of your install with us.