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They're completely my own design. They produce 130+db @20hz with around 1% THD.Are those Lil Wreckers?
It's actually from a local furniture factory, I know the owner and he's a hi-fi enthusiast also. Own's large ESL:s...I'm drooling over your work shop... (oh yeah... the subs are awesome too).
Very nice Christopher. Do you have measurement graphs?Kakkadu,
Awesome. And there is a guaranteed engineering job on The Death Star for you. The forklift is to move them, yes? Handles-schmandles... I'm guessing 300+lbs each? I've sailed boats smaller than those things. Those drivers are clearly HUGE, and that's A LOT of "MFD" (Mutha' Frukkin' Denseboard). I've just finished some nice, well-braced (but comparatively miniature) 22" x 11" x 10" three-way speakers and they weigh 32 lbs each WITHOUT drivers. I'm a professional builder with a great shop and it was still a MASSIVE, 50 hour project, so...Chapeau!
This level of undertaking makes one realize how cheap (and/or expensive), light, commercially-built speakers are hard to do correctly given how much the boxes flex, bend, and sing at random frequencies. I have yet to work on active crossovers, etc. Hrmph
And yikes! 130dB at 20Hz is ear-nose-eye-bleed territory. Please be careful!!!![]()
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Heh, funny coincidence. My friend owns a strip club which is registered as 'incontinent ltd'May I suggest a name for your little friends?
[the] INCONTINATORS
I would leave a capacitor to the tweeters just in case your MiniDSP setup gets corrupt or you connect the cables wrong by accident. Without caps the tweeters will blow extremely easy in this scenario.Active crossovers are the way to go IMO. I am going to remove the crossovers in my RP160Ms and use miniDSP 2x4HDs.