New HSU

Chazman

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Just got a new HSU VTF-15 mk2 for Christmas. My mains are deftech bp-2000's with the low bars off, set as small and hooked to the sub outs of my AVR. I was thinking , not knowing, about putting the low bars back in, removing the rca/lfe and using the speaker's sub controls to control the 2000's subs instead of the AVR. Then the HSU would be controlled by the AVR by itself. Would I then set the mains to large? Do I just leave as is and add the HSU? Dial down the main's subs? How would you guys run the deftechs and HSU in this situation? Small room, mostly music, LOUD, some movies.
 

Wayne A. Pflughaupt

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Have no idea what low bars are, but it shouldn’t matter if the Deftech speakers controls their sub or if you have it controlled by the receiver, because once their levels are set, they're set.

You can do this a couple of ways. Run the speakers full-range with the subs, and dial down the Hsu’s frequency knob so that the sub rolls in where the Deftechs subs roll out.

Or, you can run a conventional mains / sub set-up with the Deftechs to “small.”

Worst option would be to run the Deftech full-range and Hsu sub all together. I have no faith that the Deftech subs will dig down to 16 Hz like the Hsu does. Anytime you mismatch subs, you end up with the entire system being “dumbed down” to the level of the weaker sub. You can see an example of that here, complete with supporting graphs.

Regards,
Wayne
 
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Chazman

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Have no idea what low bars are, but it shouldn’t matter if the Deftech speakers controls their sub or if you have it controlled by the receiver, because once their levels are set, they're set.

You can do this a couple of ways. Run the speakers full-range with the subs, and dial down the Hsu’s frequency knob so that the sub rolls in where the Deftechs’ subs roll out.

Or, you can run a conventional mains / sub set-up with the Deftechs to “small.”

Worst option would be to run the Deftech full-range and Hsu sub all together. I have no faith that the Deftech subs will dig down to 16 Hz alike the Hsu does. Anytime you mismatch subs, you end up with the entire system being “dumbed down” to the level of the weaker sub. You can see an example of that here, complete with supporting graphs.

Regards,
Wayne
The low bars are just another term for jumpers, factory jumpers from high to mid, mid to low. I have (had) the low jumpers off and the subs connected with the lfe/rca jack, speakers set at small. For the most part I've done what you've recommended, and many others. I put the low jumper back in, removed the sub input cables and am running them full range/ large. It sounds incredible with music, but I have had no time to tune everything and figure out what's best for movies also. Thanks for your input!
 

Matthew J Poes

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Your mains have pretty serious subs built into them. The ideal scenario would have as many LF sources operating simultaneously as possible. This provides the smoothest bass and and most headroom. However modern bass management is not great for this and not all receivers allow this to be done right. You need to be able to run the mains full range and the sub at the same time. Onkyo calls it double bass.

Doing this makes measurements more important. Simultaneous sources can interfere with each other. You want them to integrate smoothly and to overlap each other without causing any unusual boosts or cancelations.
 

Chazman

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Your mains have pretty serious subs built into them. The ideal scenario would have as many LF sources operating simultaneously as possible. This provides the smoothest bass and and most headroom. However modern bass management is not great for this and not all receivers allow this to be done right. You need to be able to run the mains full range and the sub at the same time. Onkyo calls it double bass.

Doing this makes measurements more important. Simultaneous sources can interfere with each other. You want them to integrate smoothly and to overlap each other without causing any unusual boosts or cancelations.
I have done it just as you have recommended. Now I'm buying a umik-1 and going to try and learn about REW. I read somewhere that I should get it from cross-spectrum because the have a better calibration file?is it really worth the more $$ they charge compared to say parts express? Might need to post this in another thread
 

Matthew J Poes

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I have done it just as you have recommended. Now I'm buying a umik-1 and going to try and learn about REW. I read somewhere that I should get it from cross-spectrum because the have a better calibration file?is it really worth the more $$ they charge compared to say parts express? Might need to post this in another thread

When you are ready to start this start a new thread to discuss. Briefly, the crosspsectrum calibration is handy but not absolutely necessary. The difference in mics at lf’s is Very small. Even cheap mics are fairly accurate at low frequencies. Some people like the calibration because it extends the response to well below 20hz more accurately. For calibration purposes this would only matter if you intend to use eq to extend the response that low. I personally recommend against that when using most commercial subs as they typically have high pass filters and probably would not handle the eq well. Commercial subs with substantial subsonic output are designed and eqed to their limit already and are best left alone. That means that for most people the better calibration file is more for peace of mind and not better eq of the system.

Given the small price difference many people find it no big deal to buy the CS version of the mic. I bought it because I use mine for full frequency response calibration with software like DIRAC and for speaker design work. I also was curious how closely it would track my better mics.
 
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