Fixing JL Audio sub or choosing another for music-only system

[Mike-48]

My music-only system is 2.2, by which I mean stereo subs added to the main speakers (electrostatic hybrids with sealed-box aluminum woofers). Crossover and EQ are handled by an Anthem STR Preamp. In the face of one sub newly not working, I'm pondering what direction to take.

The two JL Audio F112 subs have performed well since 2007, with at least two repairs in that time. Now one of the subs won't turn on. With shipping, the repair would cost about US$600.

Which leads me to consider -- would I be better off with something new?

A brand-new SVS SB-3000 is $1000, an SB-2000 Pro is $800, a Rhythmik F12SE is $1100. JL also has lower-priced lines. There are many other powered subs with line-level inputs, of course.

Who has compared some of these? Any thoughts? I'll be laid up for a week or two soon, so I'll have some time to consider comments an do online research.

Thanks!

 

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

$600 would get a long way towards buying a first-class used pro-audio amp from Ashly, Crest or QSC that you could use to drive the subs. IOW, convert them to passive. It’s not hard – all you’d need to do is mount a banana plug or Speakon jack to the back panel, and connect the speaker to them.

Dead subwoofer? Don’t pitch it, convert it to passive!

When I picked up a used 60” Pioneer plasma TV a couple of months ago, the seller threw in an Energy 8” sub he didn’t need. Worked out well, as I was short a sub. The Paradigm sub we had in our bedroom system had been temporarily promoted to our living room system until we can hopefully get a...

forums.audioholics.com

Regards,
Wayne

 

[Sonnie Parker]

Those F112 subs are pretty nice for music. Personally... unless I were going to replace both with something like a pair of the SB13-Ultras... or maybe the Rhythmiks... I'd opt to repair it.

Very nice setup overall.

 

[Mike-48]

Thanks, @Wayne A. Pflughaupt and @Sonnie, for your thoughts on this! Eventually, I'll figure out what to do. It's a complicated equation involving system complexity, the fun of trying something new, the risk of trying something new, overall cost, and so on.

Fortunately, the system doesn't sound bad with one sub for now, so I have plenty of time to mull it over. And mull over how to get a 95-pound box up from the basement by myself (have done it before, but not with the wife at home. For some reason, she fears for my 72-yr-old safety).

 

[Mike-48]

JL Audio has outdone themselves. After considering the repair history of my two subs, they've offered to fix this one under warranty -- though the warranty expired long ago. A nice solution to this problem.

 

[pierreo58]

I agree with @Sonnie the F112 are amazingly nice for music and home theatre. I have 2 of these and one failed a year ago. This is a weakness around the switching power supply inside the F112, related to some specific capacitors. I think that the V2 has resolve that situation (higher voltage rating I think). I ended up by replacing one capacitor (not easy to reach). In their service JL will replace 5 or 6 capacitors. These are all capacitors for switching supply. All that to say, the rest is in perfect condition and it worth it to perform the repair.

 

[zoubs]

I'm willing to bet the issue with your sub not turning on is due to the Capacitor on the standby by switch burning out. This was an issue with all JL Audio subs for quite awhile. When in standby by, power still fills the capacitor on the standby switch and it dries overtime. When this cap goes, the sub won't turn on. The caps they used unfortunately (or purposely) weren't rated for long hours. The only reason I know this is because I just went through this. I would look into this before sending back the sub. its a $5 fix (or you can change all the caps for on the board for about $20) Or give it to a local electronic repair shop if your not comfortable swapping the caps. I'm, sure it'll be less than $100 with parts. There's lots of threads out there with the same issue, wish I found them before I sent mine back to JL as it turned out the fix is very simple to perform. I could have put that money else where. Figured maybe this will help someone else.

 

[Mike-48]

Since JL will fix it for free, and the sub is from the first year of production, the cost of shipping it to them is a bargain, IMO. They'll go through the whole unit, replace a bunch of electrolytics (not just the failed one), bring everything up to spec, test it, and ship it back.