Best procedure to eq bass.

nzlowie

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Hi guys,

I’ve setup my mids and highs nicely so now its time to move onto bass. Whenever I measure the bass I get lots of peaks and dips no matter where I set the measurement mic. But they’re all different depending where I place the mic. Yea lots of room modes. What the best way to measure the room, mic at the listening spot or take a series of measurements close to my listening chair and average these? (What I’ve been doing).


Really what to make sure I’m using the correct measurement process before I start looking into the results.


Many thanks, Dave
 

Matthew J Poes

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Hi guys,

I’ve setup my mids and highs nicely so now its time to move onto bass. Whenever I measure the bass I get lots of peaks and dips no matter where I set the measurement mic. But they’re all different depending where I place the mic. Yea lots of room modes. What the best way to measure the room, mic at the listening spot or take a series of measurements close to my listening chair and average these? (What I’ve been doing).


Really what to make sure I’m using the correct measurement process before I start looking into the results.


Many thanks, Dave

Hi Dave,

I think there is no perfect right answer to this, there are a lot of ways to do this. First keep in mind, at bass frequencies, with no subs or a single sub it will likely be impossible to get a smooth bass response over a range of positions. It would require either a HUGE room or a ton of bass damping.

Measurements should be taken at and around the listening position. It doesn't make sense to take only one measurement, because the mic doesn't hear like our ears. We need a few measurements to get a sense of the modes in the space our head occupies. I suggest taking 3-5 measurements to start, more is ok too. You need to document where you take these carefully, as you will want to retake them after making adjustments, and it needs to be in the same spot. I

n my system, moving just 6 inches can cause a large 6db peak to arise at 80hz. That peak remains over the entire second seating position but is non-existing over most of the primary listening position. It amazing how big the differences can be.

You don't want to EQ a moving target, so the first step is to be sure the subwoofer and speakers are in their optimal place. Once you have baseline measurements, I suggest moving the speakers around a bit. For the main's, I actually think it is best to focus on the optimal position for the mids and highs, the staging, etc. For subs, all that matters is the smoothness of the bass, so moving it around is a good idea. It is better to have it near a wall in general, but not necessarily a corner (but always a good place to try).

As for averaging, I don't rely on the average but I use averages. I always want to be sure that if I average, I don't make a single position worse. What if I average a set of positions, EQ that, and then measure again, but now my primary listening position is, on average, worse? That isn't good. As such, while I may use an average to adjust EQ, I compare the results against my primary listening position measurements. Usually a set of 2 or 3 measurements near my head position. I make sure that if I'm cutting or boosting, I don't do so in an aggressive way that makes it worse. The "correct" way is to actually calculate the EQ based on minimum deviance amongst the many measurements. That requires an extra step external from REW and isn't something most people bother with. After doing this for over a decade, it is my opinion that, while the deviance method is better, especially for professionals, it isn't better enough to be overly audible.

The main benefit of using an average when letting REW calculate the EQ is that it protects you from making too many EQ filters or EQing with a very high Q filter. If it's very high Q (very narrow band) then it isn't audible. In my experience, if a system is setup correctly, with speakers in the optimal placement, it is possible to get a +/- 3dB smoothness to the response with just 1-2 bands of EQ in the bass.
 

nzlowie

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Hi Dave,

I think there is no perfect right answer to this, there are a lot of ways to do this. First keep in mind, at bass frequencies, with no subs or a single sub it will likely be impossible to get a smooth bass response over a range of positions. It would require either a HUGE room or a ton of bass damping.

Thanks Matthew, I have a lot to learn about getting the best from my room, your info has definitely helped with my general understanding. Will keep reading and experimenting and enjoying the journey.

Cheers Dave
 

Matthew J Poes

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Thanks Matthew, I have a lot to learn about getting the best from my room, your info has definitely helped with my general understanding. Will keep reading and experimenting and enjoying the journey.

Cheers Dave

We love to help folks who aren’t learning so please feel free to post your results. You can post the actual mdat REW file and we can delve in.
 

Wayne A. Pflughaupt

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Whenever I measure the bass I get lots of peaks and dips no matter where I set the measurement mic.

Yea lots of room modes.

Adding a bit to Matthew’s excellent advice, it would be unusual for a room to have “lots” of modes. Don’t make the mistake of assuming that every little ripple in response is a mode. Typically a room will have only a few (my last house had only one).

When you get down to the actual equalizing, it’s important again not to chase every little ripple in response. Basically, if you smooth out the worst peaks and troughs (not to be confused with nulls), that’s typically all it takes to get the best audible results. Filters with small gain amounts (2-3 dB) aren’t readily audible in subs, so there’s no point in using them just to make a graph look better. We’re after “sounds better,” not “looks better!”

And ultra-narrow filters, if they happen to land on the right fundamental, can boost or depress individual bass notes from a bass instrument, making a run sound uneven. I was able to hear this myself back when I started EQing, and was using a whole slew of little filters to make the graph look good. Typically you shouldn’t need filters tighter than ~ 1/4-octave (5.8Q) for smoothing response.

Also, you might want to try a house curve, if you flatten response and it seems like low bass notes have reduced volume compared to higher notes.

Regards,
Wayne
 

Matthew J Poes

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Adding a bit to Matthew’s excellent advice, it would be unusual for a room to have “lots” of modes. Don’t make the mistake of assuming that every little ripple in response is a mode. Typically a room will have only a few (my last house had only one).

When you get down to the actual equalizing, it’s important again not to chase every little ripple in response. Basically, if you smooth out the worst peaks and troughs (not to be confused with nulls), that’s typically all it takes to get the best audible results. Filters with small gain amounts (2-3 dB) aren’t readily audible in subs, so there’s no point in using them just to make a graph look better. We’re after “sounds better,” not “looks better!”

And ultra-narrow filters, if they happen to land on the right fundamental, can boost or depress individual bass notes from a bass instrument, making a run sound uneven. I was able to hear this myself back when I started EQing, and was using a whole slew of little filters to make the graph look good. Typically you shouldn’t need filters tighter than ~ 1/4-octave (5.8Q) for smoothing response.

Also, you might want to try a house curve, if you flatten response and it seems like low bass notes have reduced volume compared to higher notes.

Regards,
Wayne
This is very good advice, Wayne. Rooms will, of course, have more than one or two modes, but ideally, we will only need to address one or two. Same with SBIR effects, while we technically can have them from many different reflections, we ideally want to have problems with only one or two that need to be addressed. When you see people applying 20-30 bands of EQ to a system, that is a little nutty. I'm not saying there aren't scenarios where that could be true, but that is something professionals should be doing with a system in which the speakers and room are fully characterized. JBL does this with the Synthesis line, and given the technical level of the installers and information available on the speakers, it's understandable.
I actually just went through this with my system, and it took many hours to get what I finally came up with. The response is not flat, but the house curve is evident and it's fairly flat. The no EQ measurement that I'll include actually DOES include EQ in the bass. I was testing EQ in the processor, but my subs run through a pair of DSP amps that have the bass EQ in them. My bass response is not that flat without sub EQ. I'll try to post something to how the no EQ response.
Matt Theater No EQ.jpg
No EQ above 100hz
Matt Theater EQ.jpg
EQ above 100hz
Bass EQ: Very little boost was used to achieve this. I have 3 subwoofers operating in this image and the key to getting that response was actually moving the placement a little and adjusting the delays for each sub.
Matt Pre-Post Bass EQ.jpg
Also note how many measurements are there. That is one of 3 files I created in that 4+ hour measurement and tuning session to capture enough information and confirm the results of the EQ. That was the file only used for bass tuning (which included measurements of the L, C, R, and Surrounds both with and without the subs, as I needed to understand how each interacted with the subs).
It doesn't need to take this long, I was being a perfectionist, but you can see how much can go into this. My main point isn't to scare you, you can make big improvements with EQ and measurements in a matter of minutes. It's more that you shouldn't restrict yourself to just a few measurements and EQ. Most of how I inprove a response is actually phase, placement, and levels. EQ is a small piece of this.
 

Dave Lowe

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I just thought I'd post a sweep from my room to get your thoughts. Seems to be some really bad ringing at 16k, idea's to reduce this? Not sure if this is really an issue as I've looked back on other room sweeps and they're show a lot faster drop off. Or could it be an artifact of my hf horn?
Lower bass seams to hang on for too long as well, the room is brick with a few big windows so it not just a brick box. At the moment it has carpeted floor, corner bass traps and a few pieces of soft furniture so I'm not sure what the next step is.
 

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John Mulcahy

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Constant level features in the waterfall are external noises/tones rather than room behaviour. That waterfall looks to be suffering from some unusual choices of waterfall window preferences, probably best sticking to Hann for the left window and Tukey 0.25 for the right, configured on the Analysis preferences.
 

Matthew J Poes

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As John said that is not likely to be speaker or room related and should not be eqed.

If you could share your mdat file we could look at your noise floor. It seems unusual to have such a noisie ambient environment at high frequencies.
 

Dave Lowe

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Just realised that there was an issue of noise that was introduced when I plugged in the usb cable for my dsp bass amp.
I'll repeat some sweeps with this unplugged and see what happens. Do we need to add more bass trapping to tame the LF?
Special traps for these lower frequencies? Or does it look not too bad? .mdat file attached.
 

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John Mulcahy

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There is a strongly rising noise floor at HF, worth figuring out what causes that. The impulse response also has an odd feature after about 225 ms which may be related. Best making sure there are no effects of any kind being applied. Some of the measurements show noise spikes at 1 kHz and its harmonics (most easily seen in the noise floor trace on the Distortion graph). Those are typical of USB interface interference, 1 kHz is the USB frame rate. LF decays aren't too bad but the response is quite uneven, more bass trapping should help.

hfnoise.png iroddity.png noisefloortrace.png lf.png
 

Dave Lowe

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Thanks John. Appreciate your thoughts. As I suspected i think these issues would have been caused by the interference caused when I plugged in the extra USB lead to adjust the DSP in my bass amp. I new it introduced noise by didn't think about how it would impact the measurements!!! Lesson learnt .....
Attached is a close range sweep of the mid-hf range, the file was played through my JRiver with eq applied , no strange noise elements or anything that looks too odd. Apart from a jump in 3rd order distortion between 3-4.5k, (xover is at 6.3k). I'll look into this some more, review some of my other sweeps.

As the you think the LF is ok and the HF noise issue has been answered we'll call it a day! Thanks again.
 

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