Help With Setup Fargate

FargateOne

Member
Thread Starter
Joined
Jun 5, 2017
Messages
223
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
Rotel RSX-1562
Additional Amp
Bryston 3B3 for fronts mains
Universal / Blu-ray / CD Player
Cambridge CXU
Front Speakers
B&W 804 D2
Center Channel Speaker
B&W HTM4D2
Surround Speakers
B&W 705
Subwoofers
SVS PC-2000 and SVS PC-2000 Pro
Other Speakers or Equipment
10 PEQ filters/channel in receiver with REW
Video Display Device
Samsung UN55ES8000
Other Equipment
miniDSP 2x4 HD
Hi,
great discussion here about treatment, Rt60, first reflexion and live or room. Is it too mutch to ask to get any comments on my measurements related to those subjects.

All measurements are no EQ, speakers to large. Treatments are DIY panels fill with Roxul AFB 3 inches. Ceiling panels are 4 inches gap.

I do not think that I could do more to help but maybe you could suggest something. Please note that for waf reasons, a second sub is a death sentence for yours truly!


My room:15'4" x 11' 6" x 7'6" tv at the center of the long side wall
 

Attachments

  • Opinion IR RT60 and others measurements.mdat
    16.6 MB · Views: 14
  • Salle de TV (1).jpg
    Salle de TV (1).jpg
    341.6 KB · Views: 23
  • Salle de TV (2).jpg
    Salle de TV (2).jpg
    304.3 KB · Views: 23
  • Salle de TV (3).jpg
    Salle de TV (3).jpg
    322.2 KB · Views: 28

Matthew J Poes

AV Addict
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Messages
1,903
Hi,
great discussion here about treatment, Rt60, first reflexion and live or room. Is it too mutch to ask to get any comments on my measurements related to those subjects.

All measurements are no EQ, speakers to large. Treatments are DIY panels fill with Roxul AFB 3 inches. Ceiling panels are 4 inches gap.

I do not think that I could do more to help but maybe you could suggest something. Please note that for waf reasons, a second sub is a death sentence for yours truly!


My room:15'4" x 11' 6" x 7'6" tv at the center of the long side wall

Thanks FargateOne, you absolutely can ask for a review. We like that part of this work! I've moved your question to its own thread so that we don't hijack the other.

First, looking just at the response, and focusing mostly on the bass, it looks like you have some dips in the bass related to the speakers placement. That dip at 55hz appears to be caused by the position of the main speakers and shows up in both the combined response and individual speaker response. Depending on how the sub and mains are operating, this might be fixable. If the mains operate as full range, ideally you want the sub to also operate over the same range up to 80-100hz. This should help fill in that gap (but not always). Another option is to pull the speakers out into the room, as its an SBIR effect.

The trough from 90hz to 120hz is a result of multiple factors from what I can tell. It appears to be both SBIR effects from each of the speakers placement (including the sub) and the room's modes. Namely there seems to be modes causing peaks on each side, but nothing right where the trough is. Mix that with some SBIR effects and you have a perfect storm for a big trough.
When I have this problem the first thing I do (since its easiest) is to try flipping the phase on the sub and see if its any better. If not, then I switch it back and adjust the delay to the sub. Is it better (in 1 foot increments)? I generally find the delay offers little benefit but sometimes it can narrow these troughs. The polarity flip sometimes does a lot and sometimes doesn't. They are good first efforts because you don't need to move anything. I also play with the crossover, but to be honest, I find this makes little difference with troughs or dips.

Of course SBIR effects can only be fixed by moving the sources. Your mains are just in a bad position relative to the front wall to cause SBIR in a bad area. The only fixes are a) pull the speakers out a few feet (and I get that probably isn't feasible), and b) push them back closer to the wall (and I get that may not be feasible either).

Other options are to absorb the LF's that are causing the interference. This is easier said than done because we are talking about LF's around 50-60hz and 90-120hz, which all are below the range where typical velocity absorbers are very effective. These actually need to be placed directly where reflection is happening too, so behind the speakers and behind you (front and rear walls). Floor and ceiling bounce can also cause this and may also be contributing to the width. Your ceiling seems well treated, but the ceiling treatment may not be absorbing low enough. The floor bounce is untreated as the carpet is just too thin. You could try placing large pillows on the floor to see if that changes the measurement.

Your RT60 is flat, low, and relatively smooth. No issues there.

Your Waterfall (CSD) looks minimum phase. The peaks and troughs match the peaks and troughs in the frequency response plot. Smoothing the bass further would smooth it, but it isn't bad either.

The ETC plot seems to show a little bit of diffraction effects, but I have no idea whats causing them. You may want to try pulling the speakers out another foot and remeasure just to see.

The Center channel measurements look mostly good. I would consider placing the center on some foam or a separate stand to see if that improves anything. It doesn't look all that bad, but placing a speaker on a wide and deep stand causes diffraction and can impact voice clarity. I prefer to avoid that. An idea scenario would be to get rid of that rack and have the center be on an actual speaker stand. Then move the equipment somewhere else.

The surround speakers are very near the rear wall. because of how they are aimed they will have reflections off this wall and that can call attention to the speaker. Your surround speakers show reflections at around 2 feet or so. I suspect it could be the rear wall. Putting an absorber or scattering surface on the wall near the speaker could help improve things. It isn't bad now, just a suggestion. The reflection only appears to be 3-5 db's below the direct signal.

You have a number of panels that appear to be placed in areas that wouldn't help with mid or high reflections, but because they are veolicty absorbers, that is their primary advantage. As such, you might consider adding a membrane to the front of those panels to reduce their mid and high frequency absorption, but increase the bass absorption. I often suggest carpet protection film or a painters drop cloth (the plastic type).

The polar response of the B&W speakers you have shows the smoothest response to be on axis and less so off axis. Your speakers don't appear to be toed in much. I suggest toing them so they point at your head. See how that sounds. Also try a little less or a little more. There is an inexpensive iPhone app for toeing speakers you can try if you want repeatable results called SpeakerAngle. It might be available on Android, I'm not sure.
 

FargateOne

Member
Thread Starter
Joined
Jun 5, 2017
Messages
223
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
Rotel RSX-1562
Additional Amp
Bryston 3B3 for fronts mains
Universal / Blu-ray / CD Player
Cambridge CXU
Front Speakers
B&W 804 D2
Center Channel Speaker
B&W HTM4D2
Surround Speakers
B&W 705
Subwoofers
SVS PC-2000 and SVS PC-2000 Pro
Other Speakers or Equipment
10 PEQ filters/channel in receiver with REW
Video Display Device
Samsung UN55ES8000
Other Equipment
miniDSP 2x4 HD
To Matthew J Poes,
wow! Finally I have usefull comments ! Thank you so much. A+ AV NIRVANA Forum. I will try some of your suggestions and report later. Thanks for RT60 it helps me to understand. I suspected that it was OK.

About SBIR, I hesitate to push them back to the wall because owner manual of B&W 804D2 suggest at least 50cm. And because I think it destroys the SS&I (sound stage image) like a bug in a car windshield. I read some experts who think that it is not true. I don't know who to believe. I tried and it raise the low frequencies ( I could cure it with Dirac for movies but I like to listen music in pure-direct-bypass-2-channels-full-range speakers-EQ-stereo-good-old-time!!)

About integration sub and mains, I made a lot of tests. Before to give any mdat file, I have a question. My receiver (Rotel RSX-1562) can set xo for the sub and in the same time xo for the satellites. Rotel technical services told me that it is a 24dB LPF and a 12dB HPF ( Butterworth or LR I don't know). Someone tells that it is a bad proctice. Rotel are no amateur. So what would explain their choice? The question is important here because I would like to know if it can help me to set a master xo for the sub (80Hz for instance) and a different one for the mains (40Hz) or if I loose my time. I have a lot of measurements to provide but can not decide what is best in theory and in practice.

About absorbtion panels, now I am confused. I thought that put them at the first reflexion point without a membrane was the way to absorb HF which are the most important for the sound stage. The IR in the mdat seemed reflect that to me. If I add a 6mm plastic membrane, the HF first reflection will return, no?
 

Matthew J Poes

AV Addict
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Messages
1,903
To Matthew J Poes,
wow! Finally I have usefull comments ! Thank you so much. A+ AV NIRVANA Forum. I will try some of your suggestions and report later. Thanks for RT60 it helps me to understand. I suspected that it was OK.

Thanks I'm glad it was helpful. That's what we aim for. Tell your friends!

About SBIR, I hesitate to push them back to the wall because owner manual of B&W 804D2 suggest at least 50cm. And because I think it destroys the SS&I (sound stage image) like a bug in a car windshield. I read some experts who think that it is not true. I don't know who to believe. I tried and it raise the low frequencies ( I could cure it with Dirac for movies but I like to listen music in pure-direct-bypass-2-channels-full-range speakers-EQ-stereo-good-old-time!!)

Dirac does do wonders for improving the smoothness of the response and thus removing linear distortion. I can also understand the desire to listen in pure 2 channel, though I feel myself that DIRAC makes 2 channel sound much better and don't find that it does any harm. EQ removes distortion, so I consider that a good thing. Not using EQ, like DIRAC, means you are leaving a level of distortion in your system. As for speaker placement, I agree, don't push them against a wall. I only mentioned that as a way to figure out if its SBIR or not. In fact, if anything, I would pull them farther out from the wall. The only time I find that a speaker near a wall sounds good SS&I is when its IN the wall. Something like this:
Soffit speakers.jpg

About integration sub and mains, I made a lot of tests. Before to give any mdat file, I have a question. My receiver (Rotel RSX-1562) can set xo for the sub and in the same time xo for the satellites. Rotel technical services told me that it is a 24dB LPF and a 12dB HPF ( Butterworth or LR I don't know). Someone tells that it is a bad proctice. Rotel are no amateur. So what would explain their choice? The question is important here because I would like to know if it can help me to set a master xo for the sub (80Hz for instance) and a different one for the mains (40Hz) or if I loose my time. I have a lot of measurements to provide but can not decide what is best in theory and in practice.
There is so
much nonsense around bass management that I don't blame you for being confused. Asymmetric crossovers like this are common. A speaker naturally rolls off due to its own response. That response is typically going to be 2nd order or 4th order. It IS a high pass filter, its just a natural high pass filter. The original intent of the THX standard was to have the speaker be sealed such that it had a -3db point at 80hz. It would naturally roll off as a 2nd order BW, so if you use a 2nd order BW high pass you get a 4th order LR high pass, which would match the 4th order LR low pass. That is why many receivers are set up this way. In practice, this is actually not needed because the bass is in state we call steady state. What this means is that the subwoofer isn't acting like a direct source, the room is. The bass that reaches our ears has bounced off every surface in the room by the time it gets to you. If you play around with different crossovers below 100hz I bet you will find it makes very little difference, if any at all. I in fact did this recently trying to resolve some bass issues. I have very flexible DSP and can do 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 8th order filters, so I thought why not try it. The difference in measurements was so small as to be unlikely to even be audible. In other words, what Rotel is doing is a convention, it is the "correct" way to do it per THX. However in practice, I don't consider it an issue. I would personally prefer flexible filter slopes, but it makes a very small difference.

About absorption panels, now I am confused. I thought that put them at the first reflexion point without a membrane was the way to absorb HF which are the most important for the sound stage. The IR in the mdat seemed reflect that to me. If I add a 6mm plastic membrane, the HF first reflection will return, no?

Sorry my bad, I didn't explain myself. Leave the first reflection panels alone. What I meant was that you appear to have panels not at first reflection points and that you could add membranes to these. The membrane should be of relatively low density so it won't reflect all high frequencies. I would consider modifying the panels on the front wall behind the speakers and in the corners. It is also possible that modifying some of the ceiling panels would be good.

Additional bass trapping also can't hurt, but may not be needed. SBIR won't go away with bass traps unless they are in the right location to absorb the offending reflection.
 

FargateOne

Member
Thread Starter
Joined
Jun 5, 2017
Messages
223
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
Rotel RSX-1562
Additional Amp
Bryston 3B3 for fronts mains
Universal / Blu-ray / CD Player
Cambridge CXU
Front Speakers
B&W 804 D2
Center Channel Speaker
B&W HTM4D2
Surround Speakers
B&W 705
Subwoofers
SVS PC-2000 and SVS PC-2000 Pro
Other Speakers or Equipment
10 PEQ filters/channel in receiver with REW
Video Display Device
Samsung UN55ES8000
Other Equipment
miniDSP 2x4 HD
Thanks again, specially about the xo thing. Good to know.

I will try some changes (to put 6mm plastic membrane to some panels among others) and report later this week-end.
 

FargateOne

Member
Thread Starter
Joined
Jun 5, 2017
Messages
223
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
Rotel RSX-1562
Additional Amp
Bryston 3B3 for fronts mains
Universal / Blu-ray / CD Player
Cambridge CXU
Front Speakers
B&W 804 D2
Center Channel Speaker
B&W HTM4D2
Surround Speakers
B&W 705
Subwoofers
SVS PC-2000 and SVS PC-2000 Pro
Other Speakers or Equipment
10 PEQ filters/channel in receiver with REW
Video Display Device
Samsung UN55ES8000
Other Equipment
miniDSP 2x4 HD
Thanks FargateOne, you absolutely can ask for a review. We like that part of this work! I've moved your question to its own thread so that we don't hijack the other.

(...)
The trough from 90hz to 120hz is a result of multiple factors from what I can tell. It appears to be both SBIR effects from each of the speakers placement (including the sub) and the room's modes. Namely there seems to be modes causing peaks on each side, but nothing right where the trough is. Mix that with some SBIR effects and you have a perfect storm for a big trough.
When I have this problem the first thing I do (since its easiest) is to try flipping the phase on the sub and see if its any better. If not, then I switch it back and adjust the delay to the sub. Is it better (in 1 foot increments)? I generally find the delay offers little benefit but sometimes it can narrow these troughs. The polarity flip sometimes does a lot and sometimes doesn't. They are good first efforts because you don't need to move anything. I also play with the crossover, but to be honest, I find this makes little difference with troughs or dips.

Of course SBIR effects can only be fixed by moving the sources. Your mains are just in a bad position relative to the front wall to cause SBIR in a bad area. The only fixes are a) pull the speakers out a few feet (and I get that probably isn't feasible), and b) push them back closer to the wall (and I get that may not be feasible either).

(...).

So SBIR seems to be confirm (see screen captures) Unfortunatly, I can't move the spekers forward nore want to pull them back to the wall.
So I tried phase see my mdat. Maybe I made a mistake measuring L+R+sub for this, you tell me?
 

Attachments

  • sbir left.jpg
    sbir left.jpg
    45.2 KB · Views: 16
  • sbir right.jpg
    sbir right.jpg
    45.2 KB · Views: 13
  • PHASE 0 45 90 135 180 gdsubmax.mdat
    1.2 MB · Views: 14

FargateOne

Member
Thread Starter
Joined
Jun 5, 2017
Messages
223
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
Rotel RSX-1562
Additional Amp
Bryston 3B3 for fronts mains
Universal / Blu-ray / CD Player
Cambridge CXU
Front Speakers
B&W 804 D2
Center Channel Speaker
B&W HTM4D2
Surround Speakers
B&W 705
Subwoofers
SVS PC-2000 and SVS PC-2000 Pro
Other Speakers or Equipment
10 PEQ filters/channel in receiver with REW
Video Display Device
Samsung UN55ES8000
Other Equipment
miniDSP 2x4 HD
OK,

Matthews J Poes said : "The floor bounce is untreated as the carpet is just too thin. You could try placing large pillows on the floor to see if that changes the measurement."

I can confirm the floor bounce, unfortunatly nerar impossible to treat.


Asymmetric crossovers like this are common
About that here are my results with sub main crossover to 100Hz , Fronts and center to 40 GHz and all surrounds to 80 Hz. Do you have any comments?

About toe-in the fronts I give a mdat with for position: aim to MLP, at 30 cm each side of it, at 65 cm each side and full aimed to rear wall (90 degrees). To my ears I prefer a strong SS&I and I am a AudioCraver's disciple. I prefer not the equilateral triangle.
 

Attachments

  • all fronts sub xo 100 fronts xo 40.mdat
    19.6 MB · Views: 15
  • Toe-in MLP 30cm 65cm et face to the wall.mdat
    22.4 MB · Views: 12
Top Bottom