Understanding the difference between Balanced and Unbalanced audio connections

Tony V.

Senior Member
Thread Starter
Joined
Apr 14, 2017
Messages
1,063
Location
Edmonton, AB, Canada
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
Onkyo TX RZ920
Main Amp
Samson Servo 600
Additional Amp
QSC MX1500
Universal / Blu-ray / CD Player
Panasonic 220
Front Speakers
EV Sentry 500
Center Channel Speaker
EV Sentry 500
Surround Speakers
Mission 762
Surround Back Speakers
Mission 762
Subwoofers
SVS PB13u
Video Display Device
Panasonic AE 8000
Remote Control
Logitech 1100
Streaming Subscriptions
Denon DT 625 CD/Tape unit, Nintendo WiiU, and more
Have you ever wondered what the difference is between a Balanced and Unbalanced connection and why?

I hope his post will help make this much clearer to understand.
First of all this can be a very confusing subject and I will spell this out in plain English without all the mumbo-jumbo.

Most home consumer audio gear that you buy from big box stores use unbalanced analog audio connections that is designed for short distances and low cost. These connections are usually the "rca" type and have a shield and a single positive for the signal.
Below you will see a picture representing an unbalanced connection (a sine wave in this case) and the shield connected to ground which means it has no signal on it.
full?d=1492279647.jpg


A line level unbalanced audio signal can be looked at as a low voltage signal and unbalanced audio signals are usually between 200mv and 1volt depending on if it is a fixed or adjustable level.
Given this "lower" voltage audio signal, long distant runs are susceptible to interference and thus is only good for short runs of usually less than 20ft although a good quality cable can go a bit farther.

The problem with using home audio gear with professional audio gear is that the pro gear uses balanced input and output signals. Amps in particular either use a 1/4" Tip Ring Sleeve (TRS) or XLR connector
See below:
full?d=1492280062.jpg


The audio signal used in these connectors is at a higher voltage usually 1.5v to 2v and as seen in the graph below has twice the signal as an unbalanced signal.
full?d=1492280315.jpg


There are two alternating signals -1.5v & +1.5v and the shield. The advantage of this connection is that when used for long distances the noise (interference) is not only canceled out by the alternating voltages but because its a higher signal voltage it can travel much longer distances (as far as 1000ft) without a booster. The primary factor that allows longer connections with balanced lines has more to do with impedance than voltage. A balanced line has a low impedance (200 to 600 Ohms) while an unbalanced line typically is around 10k impedance.

Now here is the problem, when we try to use pro audio gear with balanced inputs connecting to the home audio equipment with unbalanced outputs you usually get incompatibility problems. These problems consisting of noise (usually 60Hz hum) or the signal coming into the pro gear being to low causing the noise floor to be raised when you boost the signal (sometimes referred to as signal to noise ratio) making the background hiss or hum amplified to the point that it becomes unusable .
On some amps or other pro gear you may have the ability to "short" the two connectors on the 1/4" TRS to make it a TS unbalanced input. The misconception of this option is that the voltage signal is also boosted but this is not normally the case and is still lower than what a balanced signal should have meaning that the amp at MAX on the level controls will not output the full amount of power it can. If your running this configuration and your amp levels are at MAX to achieve the levels you want I suspect that you have this problem as pro amps should not need to be run more than 75% of its max level control.

The fix to this issue is to use a line balancing transformer sometimes called a direct box or something like the Samson S-Convert costing around $50 This properly takes the unbalanced signal and converts it to a balanced signal and raises the voltage.
Adapters can be bought or made to go from XLR to 1/4" TRS as well because on some you only have the XLR outputs

There are also several companies that make consumer grade high quality external amps that have proper unbalanced inputs so looking at that route if your planning on getting an external amp can be a good option. The big plus to using some of the pro gear is that the price seems to be much lower per watts and can be found for under $300 new for two channel amps offering well over 200watts x 2.


Please feel free to comment in this thread and add more info.
 
Last edited:

jo-erik wolden

Registered
Joined
Jun 5, 2017
Messages
1
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
ayre k5
Main Amp
2x Rotel 1091
Additional Amp
-
Other Amp
-
Universal / Blu-ray / CD Player
-
Front Speakers
Usher mine one dmd
Center Channel Speaker
Usher 616 dmd
Surround Speakers
none yet
Surround Back Speakers
none yet
Front Height Speakers
none yet
Rear Height Speakers
none yet
Subwoofers
eavrthquake mkvi-15
Other Speakers or Equipment
-
Video Display Device
-
Well spoken , more or less just as my old teacher laid it out! :-)
 

Todd Anderson

Editor / Senior Admin
Staff member
Joined
Jan 20, 2017
Messages
9,245
Location
Balt/Wash Metro
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
StormAudio ISP.24 MK2
Main Amp
Emotiva XPA-5
Additional Amp
Emotiva XPA Gen3 2.8 multichannel amp
Other Amp
Denon X8500H
Computer Audio
AudioEngine A2+
DAC
THX ONYX
Universal / Blu-ray / CD Player
Kaleidescape TERRA, OPPO UDP-203, Panasonic UB9000
Front Speakers
GoldenEar Technology Triton One.R
Center Channel Speaker
GoldenEar Technology SuperCenter Reference
Surround Speakers
SVS Ultra Surround
Surround Back Speakers
SVS Ultra Bookshelf
Front Height Speakers
SVS Prime Elevation x4 (Top Front, Top Mid-Front)
Rear Height Speakers
SVS Prime Elevation x4 (Top Middle, Top Rear)
Subwoofers
dual SVS SB16s + dual PSA XS30s
Other Speakers or Equipment
Behringer 1124p; Aura Bass Shaker Pros; SuperSub X
Video Display Device
JVC NX7
Screen
Seymour Screen Excellence, Enlightor NEO AT Screen
Streaming Equipment
iFi Audio Zen Blue
Streaming Subscriptions
Qobuz, TIDAL, Spotify, ROON
Other Equipment
LG Electronics 65-inch B6 OLED, Sony 65-inch X900F, ZeroSurge 8R15W x 2, ZeroSurge 2R15W x 2
Nice read Tony! This should definitely help a lot of folks out! :T
 

tesseract

Senior Admin
Joined
Nov 12, 2016
Messages
1,266
Location
Lincoln, NE
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
Emotiva XMC-1
Main Amp
Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2
Additional Amp
Emotiva XPA-3 Gen 2
Other Amp
Dayton SA1000
Universal / Blu-ray / CD Player
Sony BDP S590 & Pioneer DV-610AV
Front Speakers
JTR NOESIS 210 RT - L/R mains
Center Channel Speaker
Chase SHO-10 - Center
Surround Speakers
Chase PRO-10 - Surrounds
Subwoofers
Chase VS-18.1 x 2 - Subwoofers
Video Display Device
Vizio E550VL
Streaming Subscriptions
h/k TC35C/Ortofon Super OM10/Pro-Ject Phono Box S
Thanks for that, Tony!

With the exception of my LFE out, my system is all HDMI or XLR.
 

AudiocRaver

Senior Reviewer
Staff member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
974
Location
North Carolina, USA
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
Onkyo TX-SR705 Receiver
Main Amp
Crown XLS 1502 DriveCore-2 (x2 as monoblock)
Additional Amp
Behringer A500 Reference Power Amplifier
Front Speakers
MartinLogan Electromotion ESL Electrostatic (x2)
Center Channel Speaker
Phantom Center
Surround Speakers
NSM Audio Model 5 2-Way (x2)
Subwoofers
JBL ES150P Powered Subwoofer (x2)
Good job, Tony, great explanation.
 

Tony V.

Senior Member
Thread Starter
Joined
Apr 14, 2017
Messages
1,063
Location
Edmonton, AB, Canada
More  
Preamp, Processor or Receiver
Onkyo TX RZ920
Main Amp
Samson Servo 600
Additional Amp
QSC MX1500
Universal / Blu-ray / CD Player
Panasonic 220
Front Speakers
EV Sentry 500
Center Channel Speaker
EV Sentry 500
Surround Speakers
Mission 762
Surround Back Speakers
Mission 762
Subwoofers
SVS PB13u
Video Display Device
Panasonic AE 8000
Remote Control
Logitech 1100
Streaming Subscriptions
Denon DT 625 CD/Tape unit, Nintendo WiiU, and more
Thanks guys
 
Top Bottom